The family table

Rosie's is the family table of Crown Restaurant Group, and the most literal expression of where all of this started. Chef Anthony Sitek grew up in an Italian household in New Jersey, and the recipes his grandmother cooked out of are the recipes this kitchen cooks out of. Rosie is named for that side of the family. The mural on the wall is her.

The food is red sauce done properly, which mostly means done slowly. Sauces are built from scratch and held long enough to taste like something. Pasta is made in house. Mozzarella is pulled by hand — the restaurant's own line is that it considers mozzarella a vegetable, and the amount of it that leaves the kitchen supports the claim. Spaghetti and meatballs is on the menu without irony and outsells almost everything else.

The room is bright and loud in the right way. An open kitchen runs along one side so you can watch the pans work, the bar handles Italian cocktails and amari with more range than a place this comfortable needs to, and the patio on 7th Street picks up the downtown evening crowd. It is a restaurant built for a table of six on a weeknight, a birthday that runs long, or two people who want a bowl of something and a glass of red.

Dinner only, seven nights, from 4:30. Hours shift with the season, so the printed times here are the ones to trust. Menus and ordering live on the Rosie's Italian site; this page is here to get you a table.